May 9, 2015

Analysis, part 1 - Yoke

The DS9/NEM admiral jacket contained a plethora of details in its construction that made it so unique.

First and foremost was its quilted yoke.

DS9, 6x4 "Behind the Lines"


The yoke was quilted vertically in precise increments of ¾" - the front yoke, back yoke, and the shoulder points. 

(In other words, the quilt lines are all ¾" apart and parallel.) 


The real construction detail of this uniform, though, was in the relationship between the quilting/topstitching and the rest of the upper garment, and its precise alignments in that regard made it a masterpiece of coordinated detail. 

Everything was determined with the quilt lines in mind, as well as constructed and/or adjusted in increments of quilt lines or half quilt-lines (¾" or ⅜", respectively). 

The edge of the neck opening, for instance, fell exactly on a quilt line or mid-quilt line at the shoulder seam:

Quilt line
Insurrection
Mid-quilt line
VOY, 6x10 "Pathfinder"


The quilt lines on the front and back yokes met their counterparts at the shoulder seam and aligned perfectly:

DS9, 6x5 "Favor the Bold"
DS9, 7x16 "Inter Arma Enim Silent Leges"



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