Required Materials, Supplies, Notions, etc.

FABRIC:

* Black wool gabardine (jacket body) = 2 ½ yards

* Gray wool gabardine (yoke and shoulder point trim) = 1 yard

* Gray wool elastique/cavalry twill (yoke) = ½ yard

The correct dye to match the screen-used wool elastique is "mouse grey" by Pro Chemical and Dye. 

Alternatively, one can purchase gray wool elastique and matching wool gabardine from International Silks and Woolens. 

* Batting = ½ yard 

As mentioned in our DS9/NEM duty jumpsuit analysis, the loft of the batting seemed to vary over the years. 

The original uniforms reportedly used typical low-loft batting, such as that likely available at your local fabric store, and that it is what we at Bad Wolf Costumes prefer to use.

* Underlining fabric (muslin will do nicely) = 2 ½ yards

An "underlining" is simply another cut of fabric which is cut identically to the fashion fabric then serged, sewn, or basted to the fashion fabric inside the seam allowance so the two layers act as one.

* Lining = 2 ½ yards

* Berry/burgundy wool gabardine (sleeve stripes) = ¼ yard

* Fusible interfacing = ¼ yard

* ⅛" twisted/braided metallic gold piping = 4 yards

*⅟16" black cord = 1 yard

ACCESORIES, NOTIONS, SUPPLIES, ETC.:

Walking foot or quilting foot for sewing machine (or an actual quilting machine)

Zipper/piping foot for sewing machine

Quilting needles for sewing machine

1 spool of black thread 

1 spool of gray thread matching wool gabardine and elastique 

Tailor's/dressmaker's white pencil

Liquid fray preventer

1 can of temporary fabric spray adhesive

1 or 2 hook-and-eye closures

1 black lightweight separating jacket zipper (15-19", as it can be shortened)

1 pair of shoulder pads

1 communicator of your choice

Iron and ironing board, preferably with a sleeve ironing board

The usual stuff (scissors, seam ripper, bobbins, hand needles, etc.)

Also, a serger is HIGHLY recommended; it will not only make your workflow easier and sewing room cleaner (fewer threads, frays, etc. all over the place), but it will also prolong the life of the garment itself by keeping the pattern pieces and seams in better condition.

You'll need four sets of admiral rank insignia of your choice (one on each side of the division shirt collar and one on each sleeve stripe). 

Lastly, you'll also need a 2" black leather belt and a UFP belt buckle.


NEXT: Fabric Notes and "Substitute" Material Recommendations