Pin the sleeve assembly to the appropriate side of the jumpsuit body, matching the "center" quilt line with the shoulder seam and the lower edges of the shoulder point with the bottom of the jumpsuit body's yoke.
Baste the sleeve assembly to the jumpsuit body.
Flip the garment around (right sides out) and inspect to confirm proper alignment of the "center" quilt line and shoulder seam, as well as the shoulder point trim with the jumpsuit body's yoke trim.
Once satisfied with the proper alignment, sew the sleeve assembly to the jumpsuit body, using black thread for the sleeve portion and gray thread for the yoke. We recommend stitching twice for thoroughness (as done before with the yoke), as well as reinforcing at the shoulder seam and bottom of the shoulder point/yoke.
TIP: We recommend using your quilting/walking foot to baste at the three key areas (front yoke bottom, "center" quilt line/shoulder seam, and back yoke bottom) first, adjusting as necessary. Once these three intersections have been properly aligned, sew the shoulder point to the yoke, then switch to black thread and a regular foot to sew the remainder of the armscye (sleeve and lower sleeve hole). Once satisfied with the joining, stitch the shoulder point to the yoke again and reinforce at the aforementioned three key areas.
Press the armscye seam allowances open using a tailor's ham.
It's at this point that you'll be glad you clipped out the batting/backing in a few areas to reduce bulk!
As done previously with the shoulder seam, topstitch both the yoke and shoulder point ⅛" on each side of and parallel to the armscye seam, forming three parallel lines and securing the seam allowances in place.
Remember, the bottom of the armscye topstitch should meet a quilt line or a mid-quilt line on both the yoke and shoulder point, and at the shoulder seam the yoke topstitch should "peak" where the next quilt line would be.
The trims should also meet exactly.
Also remember that on some uniforms, the topstitching began on/extended onto the yoke/shoulder point trim, while on others it did not.
Since it did not on the (non-recycled) Nemesis standard duty uniforms, that is what we recommend; given the plethora of stylistic revisions seen on the "hero" uniforms in that movie, it is reasonable to assume that those were intended to be the "ideal" uniform construction standards of the era.
That said, if, for whatever reason, you wish to topstitch your jacket's yoke/shoulder point trim as well, a multitude of uniforms (jumpsuits, "captain jackets," and admiral jackets) from the era did, so the choice is yours.
Being cut on the bias and on the outer ends of their respective assemblies, the yoke and shoulder point trims may stretch a little bit at the armscye seam.
This is obviously best avoided, but it's hardly noticeable at the end of the day, especially if you extend the armscye topstitching onto the trim.
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